Masaba V/S Sabyasachi
How can the decisions taken by two iconic fashion brands impact the world?
Earlier this month, the fashion world was stunned when an unanticipated collaboration between Sabyasachi and H&M was announced.
The union of two iconic and diverse brands should be a reason for celebration, right? Afterall, it put an Indian brand on the global map!
But, why did this come as a shock?
The answer lies in the values that the brands stand for.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee, one of the most sought after designers in India, always encouraged slow fashion by empowering authentic Indian artisans through his luxury brand.
H&M, on the other hand, has been labelled the icon for fast fashion.
Umm… fast fashion, what?
Imagine watching a famous celebrity wear a pair of cool, funky ripped jeans. Ah, only if you could afford those too. Ah Worry not. Within one week, you see similar ripped jeans (more affordable) in your neighbourhood H&M or Only outlet.
Now you can buy those jeans, and be a part of the clan of people following these styles on Instagram! No FOMO!
This is how a trend is formed. Just like that. And, that's how trends wane off. Just like that.
As soon as a trend goes out of fashion, you are compelled to revamp your wardrobe with fresh trends. FOMO, duh!
You see what’s the problem here?
Something that seemed affordable was rarely worn. But, its repercussions go far and wide. Here’s how:
700 gallons of water is used to make one cotton shirt, enough drinking water for 2.5 years for a person.
More than 40 million people work in garment factories, 85% of whom are women and are paid as low as Rs. 300 a day for working full time.
35% of the microplastics released into the environment are from the textile and clothing industry.
We now purchase 400% more clothing than our parents did, just 25 years ago.
57% of the clothes produced end up in landfills, 25% are incinerated.
No wonder,"slow fashion" which is more environment-friendly, has gained popularity. It also promotes the local artisanal community and helps in the preservation of culture.
This, of course, often comes at a price. Slow fashion can be quite expensive. In a world where we tend to follow the herd, promoting unique designs is difficult. Yet, Sabyasachi was one of those brands that truly pulled it off.
And so its collaboration with H&M comes as a rude shock.
This collaboration also comes at a time when the entire world is focused on sustainability.
If the flag-bearers of slow-fashion will dilute their values, what will happen to the world?
Enter: Masaba Gupta
All is not lost. Other top designers like Masaba Gupta have launched an entire line dedicated to sustainable fashion.
The purpose of Masaba's 'I will wear out plastic' line was simple. While her peers are creating clothes from waste plastic, she went ahead and created fashion that eliminates the need to use plastic altogether.
With dresses that come with detachable trendy bags, this collaboration of Masaba with UNEP (United Nations Environment Programme) was immensely applauded in the fashion industry.
But, you know where she stole our hearts?
When she made her designs available for anyone to copy and create their own versions. When she made sustainable fashion truly accessible. While this is an extremely tiny step in the direction of sustainable clothing, it is a step in the right direction.
The reactions of the crowd to these two collaborations also make it clear that our eyes are on them and we are holding the fashion industry accountable.
But, before holding anyone accountable, shouldn’t we first give them the benefit of doubt?
In an open letter to Sabyasachi, the local craftspeople of India expressed their disappointment in the designer's decision to go ahead with the collaboration. The designer justified himself by saying that all he was trying to do was put the Indian design on the global map.
The artisanal community was not impressed.
While the techniques used for the collection had been developed by local artisans, none of it was designed by them. Neither have they been compensated for the techniques that were used.
In the name of Indian craftsmanship, Sabyasachi took all the brownie points. But what about the true Indian craftsmen who are already grappling with the economic crisis?
Both collaborations of Masaba with UNEP and Sabyasachi with H&M garnered a fair share of global publicity for the designers. But, the negative publicity that Sabyasachi was subjected to, didn't come in the way of the designs being completely sold out within minutes of their launch.
To borrow a couple of sentences from the open letter:
"Imagine the sheer potential of this story (of being sold out within minutes) had it only said, ‘Handmade in India’, supporting millions of jobs, equity and sustainable growth in communities that need it the most."
The real question is: What legacy do we want to leave behind?
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The rate at which textile industry is producing emissions is alarming. so happy to hear about Masaba X UNEP.